Wheel 27.5/650b Alex MD-27 D/w Eyeleted Rim , Joytech 6 Bolt Disc Q/r Black 8/10 Speed cassette Hub , Mach 1 BLACK Spokes

Part# 96559B

Only 5 left in stock




Please Note: All our wheels are machine built to order, so please allow 3-5 business days for these to ship to you.


Confused about what all the shorthand means on our wheel codes?

Here’s how to interpret them:



D/W or S/W

This means ‘double wall’ or ‘single wall’ and you will see this commonly on a wheel or rim that is compatible with rim brakes. This refers to the internal profile of the rim, where single wall is considered weaker than a double wall rim. A double wall creates additional stiffness and strength in the rim against things like brake force. A double wall rim also has increased strength against the pressure from the tyre bead pushing out from the inside of the rim. You will find a double wall rim is generally of higher quality than a single wall.

Eyeleted or Non Eyeleted

This is referring to where the nipples of the spokes are in the rim of the wheel. There are often eyelets (usually silver) that surround the spoke hole in the rim. You will generally find an eyeletted rim is stronger as these eyelets reinforce the area of high fatigue from the spoke nipples.

MSW or Non MSW

This refers to a machined side wall or a non machined sidewall. This is used to describe a wheel rim that is compatible with rim brakes, and refers to the braking surface area. You will be able to see a machined sidewall on a rim, it is the flat portion where the brake gains purchase on the rim. A machined sidewall provides a better gripping surface for your brakes, giving you increased braking power.


This shorthand is for ‘Brake Surface’ and you would see this on a rim-brake rim. A B/S rim has a flat shaped portion of the rim that is designed for the brake pads to touch. This means that it will look visually different on this outer portion of the rim, but it is not machined differently like a machined side-wall. A Machined side-wall would have better braking performance than a B/S. And a B/S rim would have better braking performance than a rim without one!

A/V, S/V or F/V

These acronyms refer to the type of valve hole machined into the rim. An A/V is an ‘auto valve’ so this is what you would find on a car tyre. This type of valve is more commonly known as a Schrader Valve type. An F/V is a French valve or a Presta type valve. This is a longer thinner type of valve that you would find on road bikes or gravel bike wheels.

P/J or S/J

These refers to Pin Joint & Sleeve Joint respectively, and they are describing the method of connecting the two ends of the rim profile. Pin Joint rims have small pins within the profile of the rim which ensure a stiff connection between the ends. Depending on how ‘tough’ the rim has been designed, there may be 2 or 4 pins within the profile.

Sleeve Joint rims on the other hand have an overlapping connection within the rim profile which provides added stiffness. This strength is a result of the greater surface area of each side of the profile touching.

28H, 32H, 36H etc

These numbers followed by an H refer to the spoke ‘Hole’ count of the rim. This means that a 36H rim requires a corresponding 36 spokes, and a hub whose spoke spoke count is also 36. You will often find rear wheels with a higher spoke count than the front wheel, and more aerodynamic wheels will have less spokes. A higher spoke count is often preferred for a stronger wheel such as in an ebike, a cargo bike or a downhill bike. And 32H is probably the most common type in modern wheels.


ERD refers to ‘Effective Rim Diameter’ and this is a measurement used in wheel building as it is required for spoke calculations. The ERD is the closest point to the hub, so a deeper rim would have a different ERD to a shallower one. You only need to know the ERD if you are calculating spoke lengths to build the wheel. It can be measured manually if you don’t have this information about your rim.

ISO / Bead Seat Diameter

This one is trickier to explain, in that it is a measurement listed on rims that is not often prefaced with ISO or BSD. It usually just appears as a series of numbers where the first number is 2 digits, followed by a 3 digit number, or the reverse. For example 622 x 13 or 571 x 14.
The ISO is the International Standards Organization, and the 3 digit number refers to the Bead Seat Diameter. The bead seat diameter is a number that’s important for choosing a tyre for the rim. The bead of the tyre must sit inside the lip of the rim and ‘seat’ in the rim in order to stay on the rim when inflated. The two digit number in the listing of 622 x 13 refers to the internal width of the rim. You would need to know the width of the rim when choosing a tyre, as a tyre that is very wide could blow off a rim that is not wide enough.




OLD or O.LD.

This does not refer to the age, and in fact refers to the Over Lock-nut Dimension (or distance). This is a measurement of the distance between the drop-outs of a fork or rear triangle. You will need this measurement to determine if a hub will fit inside the bike’s frame & fork. These dimensions are varied, but there are some standards so you won’t need to measure down to the 0.1mm. But you will benefit from using a Vernier to measure this.

‘Sealed” “Loose Ball”

This refers to the bearing type used inside the hub. A sealed bearing is often considered a higher quality hub than a loose ball bearing hub. A Loose ball bearing hub means you will be able to open up the hub & replace or re-grease the bearings if needed. A sealed hub bearing would require replacing the bearing if it is worn or damaged.

7SPD, 8/9/10 Speed, etc

Not all hub types work for all bicycles, and instead they correspond to the type of cassette or freewheel you will be fitting to them. For instance the hub will have a ‘freehub body’ that is long enough to accommodate a large 12 speed cassette to be fitted to it. And a single speed or fixed freehub has a hub body which is very short and you won’t be able to mount a large cassette to it.

Having said this, there is a lot of crossover between cassettes & freehub bodies. For example a 10 speed cassette can fit almost any cassette size, with use of the appropriate spacers on the freehub. Making this a little more difficult, or easier depending on how you look at it!


This refers to a hub which does not take a cassette, but instead takes a multi-speed freewheel or cluster. A multi-speed freewheel includes small cogs which provide a limited gear range. Freewheels will allow you to pedal backwards unlike a fixed cog set-up. A screw-on does what it says in the name, it screws on to the hub body.

Single Speed / Track

These are actually two different styles of hub, one has a freewheel and one has a fixed cog. A Single Speed gives you only one cog so no gears, but the cog is on a freewheel so that your wheels can spin while the pedals remain fixed. A track hub however is a simple cog that means pedalling backwards moves the wheel backwards, it is a ‘fixed’ system. And that’s why it is also called a fixed gear bike when you have a track set-up on your bike.

Fixed/Free or Flip/Flop

This is a noticeably different looking hub on a rear wheel. You will see on either side of the hub there is a cog. One side will be a simple cog & the other side will be a freewheel. This gives you the option of reversing the wheel to run it as a fixed gear/track style wheel or reversing it so that you have a freewheel bike.


A coaster hub has an internal brake that is engaged when you pedal backwards (or attempt to pedal backwards). This was common on bikes back in the day, and can still be found on some kids bikes. Though in Australia the law states that having only a coaster brake is not sufficient for riding on the roads, and instead you must have a functioning front & rear brake.



Centerlock / 6 Bolt

A Centerlock is a type of disc brake, as is 6 Bolt, and it refers to how the disc brake is mounted onto wheels hub. As disc brakes are mounted onto the wheel hub shell, a 6-Bolt disc brake won’t mount onto a Centerlock hub. This is usually easy to determine from looking at your existing wheel. As the 6 mounting bolts are visible on a brake rotor. If there are no bolts, you know that you have a Centerlock brake. And 6-Bolt is the more common type of disc brake.




A Nutted axle is sometimes referred to as a Bolt-On axle and is often found on BMX bikes, single speed or fixed gear bikes. And it is also necessary for an internally geared hub bike.  This axle type is a simple bolt with a Hex nut on each end.

QR or Q/R

This is shorthand for Quick Release and it refers to easily the most common type of axle. Recognisable for the ‘handle’ on one side this lever clamps the axle in place when tightened against the Acorn nut on the opposite end. These axle’s also come with springs for each side.

T/A or Thru Axle

Thru Axle’s are increasingly common on newer bicycles, and bikes with disc brakes. These axles are thick & hollow & can have a handle or a Hex head for removing them from the wheel. Thru Axle’s come in set thicknesses, usually 12mm or 15mm, though there are some outliers which are different thicknesses.


This refers to a larger than average OLD which is usually found on mountain bikes. Commonly this would be 148mm but can differ for Fat bikes, Downhill bikes & older model 27” Racer bikes.